Spin Factor
1 A valid cosmetic term that's backed by clinical proof or the required cosmetic tests or a legal definition.
2 A legitimate cosmetic term with a caveat: Its use on labels is not a guarantee that the product actually complies with the definition. (In other words, it's perfectly legal for a company to use this term on their product for any reason.)
3 It may sound like a legitimate cosmetic or scientific term, but it's not. It's spin.

Labelling Law Primer

It's hard to believe but there is no U.S. government or cosmetics industry task force that approves (or even reads) labels before a product hits the spa or store shelf. That's because the Federal Food Drug and Cosmetics Act doesn't call for it. The regulations are minimal, says chemist Bob Manzo. "They essentially state that any product which enhances the appearance of the skin is a cosmetic and any product that affects the structure and function of the skin is a drug." The latter come under the scrutiny of the FDA, the former only draw the agency's attention if the label states or implies that the product will change the skin. Otherwise misleading labels are the province of the Federal Trade Commission (FTC).

For cosmetic makers, the goal is to stay on the right side of the labelling law, while successfully wooing consumers. Product claims are carefully worded to go right up to the border of the structure-and-function line, says Manzo, using code words like restorative, soothing, and de-creasing (hyphen intentional, as decreasing would imply change). "We all look to the big beauty companies for where the line is drawn for two reasons," says Manzo. "They're watched most closely by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and Food & Drug Administration (FDA), which investigate and enforce product claims, and they generally check with these agencies through their own lawyers in D.C. for compliance."

BEAUTY

Spa Prescription | Reading Beauty Product Labels

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PATENTED COMPLEX
Commonly used to describe: High-tech anti-ageing serums
Cosmetic definition: The company has been granted a U.S. government patent on a combination of ingredients, making it illegal to copy the formulation
. Expert perspective: "Patented" is a black-and-white issue, says Bob Manzo, a cosmetic chemist and founder of Skinprint. "If it's mentioned on the product, then it must have a registered patent with the United States Patent and Trademark Office."
However: The word "patented" may convey the impression that the product has been proven effective, when in fact a patent is not a judgement of effectiveness but of originality.
Don't confuse with: "Proprietary complex." Sounds similar, but means nothing.
Spin factor: 1

BRIGHTENING
Commonly used to describe: Moisturisers, serums, spot treatments and eye-care products
Cosmetic definition: Contains ingredients that reduce pigmentation and even out skin tone
Expert perspective: "There are several effective ones in the cosmetic market such arbutin, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, and azaleic acid that are supported by good studies," says Daniel B. Yarosh, Ph.D, the author of The New Science of Perfect Skin and a leading industry skin-care formulator.
Don't confuse with: "Lightening," which is reserved for over-the-counter products containing small percentages of hydroquinone, the gold-standard skin-bleaching drug.
Spin factor: 1 or 2 depending upon the ingredients in the product

NON-COMEDOGENIC
Commonly used to describe: Moisturisers for acne-prone skin; sunscreens
Cosmetic definition: Products that don't cause more spots than a person already has or normally would have. Often used in conjunction with "oil-free".
Expert perspective: "There are expensive tests that count the number of spots before and after product use," says cosmetic chemist Ni'Kita Wilson, vice president of Cosmetech Laboratories, Inc., in New Jersey. "If after 1 or 2 weeks there are no additional spots, companies can make the claim. However, some companies still use the term even though they forgo such tests and simply use ingredients that are known not to clog pores."
Spin factor: 1 or 2

PROTECTION
Commonly used to describe: Sunscreens and products with antioxidants; anti-redness mists; creams for use in very cold climates
Cosmetic definition: In the U.S., the FDA only permits the words "skin protection" to be used with sunscreens.
Expert perspective: "It's often used improperly or used to be protective to a certain endpoint, such as 'protects against free radicals,' and doesn't refer to the skin directly," says Leslie Baumann, M.D., director of Cosmetic Dermatology at the University of Miami's Miller School of Medicine, and author of The Skin Type Solution.
Spin factor: 1 for sunscreens; 3 for everything else

ORGANIC
Commonly used to describe: Any type of beauty product that contains an organically grown ingredient. (This means a plant, herb or flower grown without pesticides, fertilisers or any synthetic aids.)
Cosmetic definition: According to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), cosmetics that contain less than 70 per cent organic ingredients cannot use the term "organic" anywhere on the principal display panel; however, a company may legally use "organic" in its brand name, product range or for a particular product (even if it's not organic at all).
Expert perspective: Many companies use the terms "organic," "natural" and "green" liberally on cosmetic packaging without any truth behind them, says Laura Craig, general manager of Essential Wholesale, a USDA-certified cosmetics lab in Oregon. "You have to make sure that the ingredient list matches up."
Furthermore: The USDA doesn't go after mislabelled products, says Craig. "So it's possible that even some products that display the USDA organic seal (it denotes 95% organic contents or more), haven't gone through the official application for it."
Spin factor: 1, but used as a 3 in 99 per cent of cases

MOISTURISES FOR 24 HOURS
Commonly used to describe: Moisturisers, lotions, serums
Cosmetic Definition: Moisturises for a prolonged period of time and may include slow-release ingredients.
Expert perspective: It's possible for a product to provide prolonged moisturisation--even as long as 24 hours--but claims for coverage by the clock require "clinical, consumer or biophysical testing to substantiate," says Dr. Baumann. "It's nearly impossible to determine if a company has actually done them--and the FDA doesn't go around checking on this."
Spin factor: 2




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