Spin Factor
1 A valid cosmetic term that's backed by clinical proof or the required cosmetic tests or a legal definition.
2 A legitimate cosmetic term with a caveat: Its use on labels is not a guarantee that the product actually complies with the definition. (In other words, it's perfectly legal for a company to use this term on their product for any reason.)
3 It may sound like a legitimate cosmetic or scientific term, but it's not. It's spin.

Labelling Law Primer

It's hard to believe but there is no U.S. government or cosmetics industry task force that approves (or even reads) labels before a product hits the spa or store shelf. That's because the Federal Food Drug and Cosmetics Act doesn't call for it. The regulations are minimal, says chemist Bob Manzo. "They essentially state that any product which enhances the appearance of the skin is a cosmetic and any product that affects the structure and function of the skin is a drug." The latter come under the scrutiny of the FDA, the former only draw the agency's attention if the label states or implies that the product will change the skin. Otherwise misleading labels are the province of the Federal Trade Commission (FTC).

For cosmetic makers, the goal is to stay on the right side of the labelling law, while successfully wooing consumers. Product claims are carefully worded to go right up to the border of the structure-and-function line, says Manzo, using code words like restorative, soothing, and de-creasing (hyphen intentional, as decreasing would imply change). "We all look to the big beauty companies for where the line is drawn for two reasons," says Manzo. "They're watched most closely by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and Food & Drug Administration (FDA), which investigate and enforce product claims, and they generally check with these agencies through their own lawyers in D.C. for compliance."

BEAUTY

Spa Prescription | Reading Beauty Product Labels

(Page 3 of 3)

CONTOURING
Commonly used to describe: Anti-ageing and cellulite products; firming creams
Cosmetic definition: Implies that the product changes the appearance of the skin or the body's shape; under FDA rules, "restructuring" skin, or having an effect on fat deposits, means that it's a drug and has to go through extensive and expensive clinical trials.
Expert perspective: "But if the company says that the skin feels restructured by the product, that's legal," says chemist Manzo. "Cosmetic companies spend hundreds of hours with legal teams fleshing out this stuff."
Spin factor: 3

NON-IRRITATING
Commonly used to describe: Products meant for sensitive skin
Cosmetic definition: Doesn't cause irritation
Expert perspective: The manufacturer may have tested the product for sensitivity, but that isn't mandatory in order to use the term. "Individual manufacturers vary, and to my knowledge, there's no worldwide standard," says Boston dermatologist Ranella Hirsch, M.D., who's also a cosmetics advisor. "But even if a manufacturer has taken these steps, it's possible that even a gentle product can irritate some users, due to allergies or misuse."
Spin factor: 3

HEALING
Commonly used to describe: Barrier-repair products and creams that target red, irritated skin
Cosmetic definition: Improves the look of the skin with emollients, humectants, or with ingredients known to soothe such as chamomile
Expert perspective: Manufacturers can't use the word "healing" in the sense that most of us understand it--as a cure for something. "It can lead to an FDA issue if the product says it heals a disease, like psoriasis or even chapped skin," says Dr. Baumann. "Those are drug claims."
Don't confuse with: "Recovery." The two are often used interchangeably, according to Dr. Baumann.
Spin factor: 3

REPAIRING
Commonly used to describe: Almost everything, including hair and nail products
Cosmetic definition: Enhances a skin, hair or nail property. Not necessary to be any more specific than that.
Expert perspective: This term pushes the boundaries of labelling ethics, says chemist Manzo. "There are many ways to repair skin. Hydrating it, exfoliating it and so on. Reputable manufacturers will have at least some basic clinical study to show higher moisture content, fewer wrinkles, etc. Most small companies just make the claim."
Spin factor: 3

BOOSTS GROWTH
Commonly used to describe: Nail, lash and hair products
Cosmetic definition: Helps to stimulate growth by providing ingredients involved in the growth process or that remove the obstacles preventing growth
Expert perspective: "It's really difficult to grasp the idea of boosting hair or nail growth by applying products directly to the hair and nails. Why? Because they are dead," says chemist Ni'Kita Wilson. "But products can protect them and keep them from breaking, which consumers may perceive as an increase in growth."
Spin factor: 3

DETOXIFYING
Commonly used to describe: Cleansers, moisturisers, masks and acne products
Cosmetic definition: There isn't one.
Expert perspective: "Detoxifying plays on the fear that our bodies are loaded with some toxin that we can't get rid of, without saying what the toxin is or does," says formulator Yarosh. "It's really another word for 'cleansing'." High-end products prefer this word to "acne-fighting," which has adolescent connotations.
Spin factor: 3

Labelling Trend: Dissecting the Skin
In addition to the creative lingo on labels that is used to promote what products do, there are dozens of ways that product labels refer to the skin. And right now, scientific sounding jargon from the biology textbook is hot: "cellular" (referring to skin cells), "epidermal" (the top layers of the skin) and "dermal" (the skin's deepest layer) are most common. Sometimes you'll see "DNA," "fibroblasts" and "telomeres" mentioned, all of which take a telescopic view of skin. The purpose: to confer scientific aura onto a product, convince the consumer of its effectiveness, justify its price tag and possibly to distract you from reading the back label, says Boston dermatologist Ranella Hirsch, M.D. "As a rule of thumb, your best bet is to always focus on the ingredients, not the claims."

January 7, 2009




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